WHO - WHAT - WHERE - WHEN - WHY - - - "I'm so confused..." |
With so many different types, brands, and manufacturer's of kayaks, trying to decide which boat to buy or even where to start can be overwhelming.
I hope to pass on some information, offer some advice, and hopefully help you make the best choice based upon the type of paddling you wish to do.
First I must clarify there's no ONE boat that is an "all around" kayak. Many people have two, three or more, based on the type of paddling they wish to do. For example if I want to go out to the mangroves and narrow channels to do some fishing, I won't want to take my 18' sea kayak. Naturally the same goes if I'm going to go out into big water and make a large crossing, or go out for a week, I'm not going to use a short, wide sit-on -top.
So let's first ask ourselves what type of paddling are we mainly going to do? That is primary purpose. If you want to fish, but 80% of your paddling is going to be touring, then concentrate on a touring boat. One that is stable enough to do some fishing, oufit it with rod holders, and so on. You can do both, but you now have your monies into a boat your going use most often. Later on you can ask Santa for another kayak... a fishing boat!
Below are sections of boat styles, types, and material construction, along with paddles, equipment, and other useful information. |
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RECREATIONAL |
Recreation boats are very popular in our area for their design and durability.
Recreation kayaks are usually 14 feet or less, and are generally wider making them more stable.
Shorter boats turn easily, and are therefore, very useful in the narrow rivers and streams.
Considered recreation because of the larger cockpit, flat bottoms, and initial stability.
The boat is generally taken out for a few hours to a whole day. These boats may or may not have a rudder or a skeg, and that's totally dependant upon the paddler.
Most recreation boats have at least one bulkhead and gear hatch which is used for storage of the day's needs.
Most of our recreation boats are made of very durable, impact and UV resistant, long lasting 2nd generation polyethylene which in turn makes our boats very reasonably priced. |
TOURING |
Touring kayaks begin at 14 feet. Meant for longer distances, these boats meet the challenge of open
waters while still feeling right at home in rivers, creeks, and shoreline waterways.
Like any boat, the longer it is, the less effort one has to put into it to get it up to cruise speed and keep it there.
Strokes are smooth and even, and less correcting is done because touring boats are designed to track straighter.
Touring boats usually come with a rudder or skeg. The nice thing about a rudder is if you don’t need it, leave it up.
Most touring kayaks are designed to be able to put the boat up on edge, thereby making simple adjustments to direction, wind resistance, and bracing.
We carry a wide range of touring kayaks, reasonably priced. Check out the new DELTA thermoformed kayaks.
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SIT – ON - TOPS |
Sit on Top kayaks are all the rage in Florida.
These specialty kayaks are very versatile. Extremely stable due to their shorter, wider footprint, they have a flat bottom and lower profile which makes it easy to get in and out both against the shore and out on the open water.
Divers have enjoyed these boats because of the ease of getting in and out of the water, and maneuvering about the deck with all their gear. They have large, open storage areas that hold diving, fishing, and personal gear, extra accessories, and anything else one might carry. These make excellent fishing platforms. Made from the durable 2nd generation rotomolded polyethylene, these boats are impact and UV resistant, and carry a full warranty.
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FISHING |
Stability is what one would look for in a kayak to use for fishing. You wouldn’t want to lose your gear to Old Man Titan!
Sit on tops are most popular for these. Wide, flat bottoms get you in close to where the fish hang out. Power boats are envious because they can’t get this close. Malibu Kayaks has the ultimate fishing machine. At 14 ½ feet long, 33 inches wide, these boats have a weight capacity of 600 extra pounds!!
Storage is not a problem. Extra large hatch in the bow, Center hatch with basket, and a hatch behind the seat with a basket that can be traded out for a live tank well.
Several of our recreational boats by Riot come with a rod holder built right in.
Customize your kayak with our complete line of accessories including tool kit, paddle holders, anchor trolley, and even a color fish finder with GPS.
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SEA KAYAKING |
Sea kayaking is the ultimate kayaking experience. These boats are made of fiberglass, Kevlar, Carbon fiber or a combination, and some manufacturers are now making sea kayaks out of the popular thermoformed plastics because of their durability and weight.
Once you learn the art and skill of true kayaking, the waterways will be your oyster. We can teach you the skills you need to paddle your kayak “Beyond the Cockpit.” So many people do all their paddling from the center of the boat, never learning the skills needed to work their body, boat, and blade in unison to go far beyond the basics. Kayaking is so much fun, and there’s a another world of kayaking that most people never learn.
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CONSTRUCTION MATERIAL DIFFERENCES |
POLYURETHANE boats are the first generation of rotomolded materials. These have a tendency to “oilcan,” warp and hold a memory. Some manufacturers still use these materials because they are les expensive to manufacture and readily available. Kayaks and Beyond does not carry any of these boats.
POLYETHYLENE are the 2nd generation of rotomold construction. These boats don’t hold a memory, will not oilcan, are impact and UV resistant. They are stronger and lighter than their predecessor.
Our rotomolded kayaks of this type and carry a full warranty. Some have a lifetime warranty. Kayaks and Beyond proudly stands behind each boat we sell.
THERMOFORMING uses a sheet of PVC / acrylic type plastic, and under a heat element melts the plastic sheeting. Many tiny suction holes in the base of the mold then “pull” the soft material into the mold.
The deck is made separate of the hull.
After cooling, the excess is cut off, the deck is bonded to the hull, and deck rigging and accessories are added.
DELTA kayaks use only virgin materials in the making of their boats. The excess cut offs are not ground up, re-sheeted, heated and cooled again This causes weaknesses in the material. Instead DELTA kayaks recycle their cutoffs to a plastics company that makes toys and plastic furniture. Side molding and “bumpers” at the bow and stern are not needed, because the tolerances around the entire boat adhere to strict guidelines.
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FIBERGLASS - KEVLAR - CARBON - HYBRID |
Fiberglass, Kevlar, and Carbon are all sheets of intertwined fibers. Laminating is done using resins with these sheets and when layer after layer is applied to a mold, the kayak takes shape and gains strength.
Respectively, each of the named fiber sheeting are stronger, more durable, and lighter since less of the product is needed. Also respectively, each of the sheets are more expensive. One would save approximately 1 pound per every $100 spent for Kevlar over Fiberglass and again another $100 per pound for Carbon over Kevlar. Gelcoating is a layer over the finished product, giving the boat it’s shiny, good-looking appearance. Care and maintenance is a must so the gelcoat doesn’t crack.
Hybrids are all three products joined together. A problem yet to be investigated is each of these three materials shrink and expand at different temperatures. Within time and data collection we’ll find out just how the hybrids will hold up. |
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SKEGS vs. RUDDERS |
"The primary purpose of both a rudder and skeg is keeping the boat straight." The differences are a skeg keeps your tracking straight while a rudder holds your course and allows the boat to make turns.
A skeg is a 'fin' that can be dropped down part way, all the way, or not at all. With a skeg up the boat is able to use it's rocker and turn easily when put on edge. All the way down the boat tacks straight even in the event of wind. The skeg is forward of the stern and there is a skeg box inside the rear hatch. PRO: the skeg will almost always make contact with the water no matter what the water conditions are. CON: Skeg box takes up quite a bit of hatch space. Rocks, sand, and debris can 'jamb' the skeg from lowering.
A rudder is a fin that when not in use lays on top of the stern all the way at the back. If you need it, it's there, if you don't need it, leave it up. A slight rudder to one direction will hold a boat on course. PRO: Can be used to turn. CON: When stowed it creates higher profile at the stern. Going over waves, the rudder will come out of the water losing contact. "Anything mechanical will break" (Murphy).
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LENGTH - WIDTH - DEPTH |
The longer the boat, the easier it is to maintain speed as the boat has more glide over the surface of the water. A longer water line also supports tacking. Shorter boats are easily maneuvered, and can turn around in tight places.
Wider boats have a greater initial stability, since it has a wider footprint on the water. The narrower the boat, the more "tippy" it seems.
The deeper the boat, the greater carrying capacity it should have. Also more bouancy. Be careful when buying a low profile boat, as the kayaker may be close to the maximum weight capacity of that boat. This leaves little room to carry gear and equipment. The trade off of a taller sided boat is it's more effected by the wind.
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HATCHES AND BULKHEADS |
A hatch is naturally a place to store gear and equipment. This is the area where you would carry camping equipment, lunch, wine, extra water, etc., anything you don't need immediately. Store things on the deck that you are going to use continuously for example a bottle of water, paddle float, pump, paddling jacket, etc. Remember, the more on the deck, the more effected by the wind.
A day hatch is convenient for those items you use often, but want out of the way. Remember though, you become more unsable when fidgeting around on the deck or turning around to get things out of your hatch.
Bulkheads are 'walls' that seperate the cockpit area, from the hatch area. These should be water-tight compartments. The boat has floatation in the event of a capsize. (It's always best to keep items you want kept dry in drybags, which also act as floatation bags.)
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PADDLES |
Paddles come in a varity of lenghts, styles, materials, and definately costs. DON'T skimp on your gear. When you're on the water, away from safety, remember: What's your life worth to you?
- Aluminum although heavy, are affordable, durable, and require minimal maintenance, Althiugh oxydation can occur over time from the salt water.
- Fiberglass is lightweight, low maintenance, and can be molded into various shapes, colors, and designs. (A pretty paddle doesn't make a good paddle).
- Carbon paddles are the lightest, but also the most expensive. They are high performance paddles, and when combined with a quality design, are the least effort, least tiring of all paddling tools.
- Locking designs vary. Most manufacturers have their own patented ferules. Most have a snap button that can be positioned at 0 or 60 degree feather.
Werner paddles have developed probably the best locking ferule design I've ever seen. A locking button holds the paddle together, while "teeth" like a gear keeps the two paddle pieces together and cannot loosen. Werner designs only paddles, and nothing else. Therefore all of their concentration is on paddle design and performance. Maybe that's why year after year, they are "Paddler Magazine's #1 Choice of paddle manufacture.
One manufacture uses a button, but also an expanding inset. A tool is required to "tighten" the inset to keep it from moving or twisting about.
There's a couple others that use a twisting action of either the paddle or a center knob. The paddle can adjust feather, and width. The pro is you can use one paddle to vary the lenght thereby bypassing the need to have muliple width paddles for multiple boats. The trade off is while paddling, they have a tendency to loosen and untwist.
Others use a lever that compresses against the inside ferule, thereby tightening up. Unfortunately these levers get caught on the deck or the kayaker, loosen over time and can't be tightened, and the result is a paddle that comes apart.
- Length is determined by the height of the paddler, and the width of the boat. Measured in cm, recreational boats are wider. Therefore to get a good "bite" on the water, the paddle is longer as one must get not only up to the front of the boat, but around the side. If the paddle is too short, the stroke is short and ineffective. Look for a paddle shaft length of 230cm for a boat that's 24" or wider and a paddler who's less than 6' tall. 240cm for a taller paddler. If the boat is less than 24" try a 220 - 230cm for less than 6' tall, 230 - 240cm for over 6' tall.
- Swing weight is the balance of the paddle at the center. Hold a paddle in one hand arm extended. Move the paddle back and forth, side to side slowly. How much effort it takes to move that paddle, stop, and move it in the opposite direction, will allow be the effort you will need under way. A light paddle doesn't make for a good paddle. Less work is better. Werner Paddles boast the lightest swing weight in the industry.
- High-Angle paddlers are generally power paddlers. The paddle blade large and almost round. Each stroke requires more energy. The arms and hands are kept high, the stroke is quick and short.
- Low-Angle padders are much more relaxed, and more efficient than their high-angle counter parts. Less energy is needed to expend on the paddle blade, so the blades are more longated. The paddle enters the water from the side instead of the top. These paddlers are less fatiqued on long paddle days, or touring where the cadence is smooth, and relaxed.
- Feathering is a term used for paddle blades that are asymmetrical to each other. In other words at different angles. When paddling the last thing we want to do is "twist" our wrist to change the angle in which the paddle enters the water. This twising causes nerve damage called Carpal Tunnel Syndrome. Repeated actions of the same over time. Using a good stroke, follow through with body rotation, (not arm movement), and feathering, the paddle is always a the correct angle. There's also a certain amount of cutting through the wind that occurs when the blade is perpendicular to the wind.
- Bent-shaft paddles are made with curves or bends in the shaft where the hands are placed. In theory, these are supposed to be more ergonomic, and stop the carpal tunnel developed by twisting the wrists. Again, if the kayaker has good technique, fancy paddles and shafts shouldn't be needed.
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As a true paddlesports outfitter, we carry the largest in-stock supplies, gear, and equipment in Citrus County, offering repairs and customization of boats, along with instruction, guidance, rentals, and launch site. Come check us out!
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A Crystal River Kayak Company...
"Not Just Another Kayak Shop"
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